Business Interruptus # 1
Given the transition here at Nau and all the associated work, it wasn’t exactly an ideal time to disappear for 2 1/2 weeks. But 2 years ago, almost to the day, I was returning from a whitewater trip on The Dumoine River in Quebec when my longtime paddling buddies and I started to talk about the next river we wanted to paddle. Very quickly the conversation coalesced around The Snake River in the northern part of The Yukon. In that moment we planted a seed that we hoped would bear fruit in two years time.
Little did I know it would actually happen. But often that’s the way it is - you hatch an idea and energies conspire to turn it into reality. So, in spite of the immediate business frenzy, and with the support of my colleagues (and wife), a few weeks back I boarded a plane in Portland, flew to Vancouver and from there on to Whitehorse. Upon arrival I met up with Dave, Ian, Peter, Chuck and Jeff. After spending the night in a slightlly disheveled local hotel we drove six hours north to Mayo, an old mining community with a population of 250 people. The following morning we boarded a seaplane with our gear and provisions for 14 days. We flew north for an hour to Duo Lakes where we were dropped off by Denny, our archetypal northern bush pilot. From there we began a fabulous whitewater river trip in a remarkably pristine, remote wilderness setting.
I’ve included a few photos that Peter took to give you a glimpse of the landscape. Over the next few weeks I’ll add some additional posts with stories and photos, including our connection to, and support of, The Big Wild. Stay tuned.
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July 20th, 2008 at 6:46 am
A Recipe for Baking Bread on the Snake River in the Yukon Territories
Leave home and fly to Whitehorse,
Bring flour, yeast, salt, oil,
Rent a canoe from UpNorth Outfitters,
Eat at the Klondike Rib & Salmon BBQ
(Tell Donna you want the Arctic char),
Hire someone to drive you to Mayo—
300 km closer to your rendezvous
With mountains, whitewater,
Made-in-the-Yukon bread.
But you’re not there yet—
In Mayo give Denny $3200
And he’ll fly you in a small bush plane
135 miles closer to the Arctic Circle,
To Duo Lakes, in the Mackenzie Mountains,
Surrounded by peaks at 6,500 feet,
But there’s little wood for your fire here.
Carry your canoe and supplies 1.5 km
To Snake River and paddle 10 km
Downstream to Reptile Creek—
Carefully descend rapid after rapid
Through the first canyon—use a spray skirt
To keep bread fixings, other food and gear dry,
Especially in June when the water is high.
Camp on the gravel bar
Near the mouth of Reptile Creek,
Check for grizzly tracks
While you collect wood—scrub birch and willow.
As fire burns down to embers
Mix dry ingredients, add water,
Knead into a dough—let rise,
Punch down, let rise again, then
Place in 9” x 12” Kamper’s Kitchen
(similar to a Dutch oven, only better).
Dig coals from fire,
Place a thin layer under oven
And a thick layer on top.
Now sit down and wait.
Maybe boil hot water for tea or coffee.
Look downstream, look upstream,
Gaze into the Goz Valley,
Without a word internalize
Glaciated mountain landscape panarama.
After an hour take the lid off—
Test your bread. Maybe it needs
A few more coals underneath
If it’s a bit doughy—
But don’t over do it,
It’s easy to burn at this stage.
When your bread looks, feels, and smells done,
Let it cool—or,
If you’re in a hurry to have a piece,
Because it’s all good, now or later,
Slice into hefty pieces, serve 6.
—Chuck Luckmann
July 20th, 2008 at 6:15 pm
Chuck was one of six friends on our Snake River trip. He was also our chief baker which his \”prose poem\” reflects. Thanks Chuck, for your scrumptious breads and wonderful poem.
July 21st, 2008 at 9:31 am
Chuck,
That. Was. Fantastic.
I would love to know if you have any other recipes that you would like to share. . .
July 21st, 2008 at 8:57 pm
My dear friend Ian!
While you were making your way down the magnificient Snake River, I was a few valleys over hiking in the Tombstone Mtns. Sorry to have missed you and your friends - I owe you a solid Yukon hosting! The Snake… and the entire river drainage system with the Wind and Bonnet Plume - are some of the finest rivers to run and wild country to savour. I hope your trip went well and I truely hope that next time you travel in this spectacular part of the world, I’ll be around to cook fresh salmon (my preference over Char!), help you snag rides to wherever you may need to get to, and enjoy some crazy stories from a lifetime ago!
Thanks to Donna for passing along your note. Hope our paths cross one day!
July 22nd, 2008 at 12:05 pm
Lynda,
How cool is that. I’m thrilled that Donna, from The Klondike Rib and Salmon Grill in Whitehorse, was able to track you down and deliver my note. Bummer to have missed you but it sounds as though you had a great trip in the Tombstone Mtns.
Next time we’ll provide a bit more advance notice. The fresh salmon sounds tasty, especially over a few crazy stories from times gone by.
July 23rd, 2008 at 8:11 am
Ask for the clear glazed ribs at the klondike Rib and Salmon….Oh so good{:)
July 23rd, 2008 at 9:57 am
Austin,
I’m pleased you enjoyed the bread recipe. I’m working on another recipe, which I’ll post if it survives the “thought kitchen.”
Chuck