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Trunkin’ It
Nothing like trunkin’ it.
Just you, your board, a pair of shorts, the ocean.
After spending a whole year wearing rubber from head to toe,
A slimy, smelly, 20-pound petroleum barrier between you and nature,
There’s nothing like the feeling of wax against your belly,
Spray on your ankles,
The sun on your back,
A gust of wind rushing by
When you drop down the face.
Even the most bone-bending wipeouts feel better
When you can feel them completely.
- Somewhere in Nicaragua, July 19, 2007
2 Responses to “Trunkin’ It”
Thank you. What’s great about seeing a nice wave like this and hearing such a fun description of warm water surfing is knowing that I burned through all my vaction time before the end of May this year and I’ll need to hunker down in the cubicle for 5 more months before I get another shot. Unless of course, I sell it all and hit the raod. Thanks again.
Nice picture. Surfing is great for a number of reasons, one being the closeness to nature. I agree wetties suck.
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