The secret to surfing Oregon beach breaks in the winter is being able to dive deep under broken waves while paddling out. If your board isn’t too floaty, you can actually come out the back of whitewater without being pushed toward the shore. Here are five simple things to remember:
1. Paddle hard, directly at the monster, even if it seems like you’ll get creamed.
2. When the wave is about ten yards away, push the nose of your board as deep as it will go.
3. When your nose is down deep, use your knee or toe to sink the tail, leveling the board under water.
4. At this point, the broken wave will almost have reached you. Pull your body down to the surfboard, so you’re under water with it.
5. As you feel the wave pass above, angle the nose upward slightly, so you come out of the back of the wave nose-first.
Like any challenge, the key to success is facing it head-on, without fear. Charge it with confidence, and you’ll be surprised at the trouble you can avoid. And don’t forget to keep your eyes open down there. It’s an amazing view.